Off The Tourist Map

My travel book, claiming to represent all things South African doesn’t even have the city of Bethal listed in the index. So I guess this means the cultural portion of my trip has begun?

We arrived into Bethal last night following our Kruger Safari. My mother was placed here by the Peace Corps and is 1 ½ years into her project to develop an after school program to feed, clothe and support the many orphaned and at-risk children in the black township neighboring this mostly white, Afrikaans town.

I don’t know what to expect though I’ve already heard some pretty strong opinions voiced about this tiny little town 2 hours away from the nearest major city.

One of the more colorful descriptions was voiced by the British ex-pat that managed a guest house we stayed at on our drive back from Kruger.

“Bethal?” He grumbled, shaking his head. “It’s a miserable place.”
“Why is that?” I prodded.
“Afrikaaners. Very conservative.”

Conservative? I wonder what he means by that? Perhaps he is referring to the holdover resentments from the massive political transition that took place in the mid 90s? Similar to some of the prejudices and mistrust that still inhabit the dark corners of the Southern US.?

This city of Bethal…a city of contrasts; cautiously exploring the uncharted waters of cultural integration, while still holding on to many of the misconceptions, distrust and fears that characterized the repressive ex-Apartheid political structure.

Or so I have been told.

Everyone I’ve met so far has been friendly, gracious and seemingly passionate about the opportunity for change.